Luxor, Egypt: More old stuff and an addendum
Before we get to the mysteries of Luxor I want to throw a little bit more info about a couple of the places that I saw in Aswan as I noticed that I am giving Egypt a bit of a negative smudge.
Abu Simbel
Not only are the two temples at Abu Simbel among the most magnificent monuments in the world but their removal and reconstruction was an historic event in itself. When the temples (280 km from Aswan) were threatened by submersion in Lake Nasser, due to the construction of the High Dam, the Egyptian Government secured the support of UNESCO and launched a world wide appeal. During the salvage operation which began in 1964 and continued until 1968, the two temples were dismantled and raised over 60 meters up the sandstone cliff where they had been built more than 3,000 years before. Here they were reassembled, in the exact same relationship to each other and the sun, and covered with an artificial mountain. Most of the joins in the stone have now been filled by antiquity experts, but inside the temples it is still possible to see where the blocks were cut. You can also go inside the man made dome and see an exhibition of photographs showing the different stages of the massive removal project.
Abu Simbel was first reported by J. L. Burckhardt in 1813, when he came over the mountain and only saw the facade of the great temple as he was preparing to leave that area via the Nile. The two temples, that of Ramesses II primarily dedicated to Re-Harakhte, and that of his wife, Nefertari dedicated to Hathor, became a must see for Victorians visiting Egypt, even though it required a trip up the Nile, and often they were covered deeply in sand, as they were when Burckhardt found them.
Temple of Philae
Philae Temple was dismantled and reassembled (on Agilika Island about 550 meters from its original home on Philae Island) in the wake of the High Dam. The temple, dedicated to the goddess Isis, is in a beautiful setting which has been landscaped to match its original site. It’s various shrines and sanctuaries, which include The Vestibule of Nectanebos I which is used as the entrance to the island, the Temple of the Emperor Hadrian, a Temple of Hathor, Trajan’s Kiosk (Pharaohs Bed), a birth house and two pylons celebrate all the deities involved in the Isis and Osiris myth.
Okay, I feel better and hope that any Egyptian God’s are a bit happier now.
Okay, now for Luxor.
Heading from Aswan to Luxor fit my traveling profile just fine. There were a bunch of trains that made the three hour ride (nice and short) to the other city by the Nile, Luxor. One thing that I do have to comment on was the state of the trains. I will write this up now so I don’t have to keep commenting on it, but the main branches from Cairo north to Alexandria and south to Aswan are really nice. I only used second class cars, but found them the best in Africa and really nice. Reclining airplane type seats, nice and chilled airconditioners, and plenty of room with minimal people cramming. I could only wonder at how nice it must have been to ride in first class or even the ten times higher priced sleeper cars. I figured that I just might possibly get across all of Egypt without having to breath natural air. It was wonderful.
After a very pleasant train ride that I slept right through, I ended up at the far more upscale town of Luxor. Here is ground zero for the whole Egyptian experience and is called the largest open air museum in the world for all its amazing sites.
For lodging I ended up splitting duties. As most tourists target the tombs and monuments, I on the other hand was looking for satellite tv. Air conditioned satellite tv of course, but satellite tv would be mine at all cost, well at the cheapest cost that I could actually find. My new traveling system is that on the first day of arrival I pick the top budget choice from my guide book and do a quick check in as to save the day for wandering and research rather than my usual full day of wandering with my pack which is like a huge bullseye for touts and the cause for some pretty nasty scuffles as I am not the nicest tourist these guys have ever seen. I stopped at the Nefertiti Hotel which was by and far the most recommended place, however for me they did not have the prerequitiste satellite tv, so I knew it would just be a one nighter. The reception guy was a bit sniffly after I told him that I would be in Luxor for probably a week, but corrected him when he thought I would be staying there for a week. I told him I was just going to be there until I could find a new place. He gave me a bit of an attitude as I wasn’t going to find a more recommended backpacker than there. I told him it didn’t matter the reputation to me but rather satellite tv. He laughed and admitted that was one thing they did not have to offer except in the restaurant. So, I dropped my bag and did some wandering.
I would be jest to say that I wandered aimlessly, planless, because I knew damn well where I was going. No it wasn’t to the West bank Tombs, no it wasn’t to the Temple of Luxor or the Luxor Museum, no, it was to the great Temple of the Golden Arches. Hmmm. Never saw that in your Egypt guidebook. How about Mickey D’s? Okay, I was on my way to Mc Donalds. What a surprise after leaving the Train station and seeing a nice McDonalds Logo sign hanging from one of the street poles. I noticed it but didn’t want to get my hopes up lest it be for some McDonald’s sponsored event only. It was confirmed however when I was inquiring at where the office was for ISIC the student discount card place where I was going to try out my fake University Id. His directions were to go down the main street, make a left at the McDonalds, and down the block on the right. Man, I zoned in on that McDonalds like it was one of those ping sounders on a submarine. I still didn’t want to get my hopes too high to have them dashed as when I saw the fake McDonalds in this town in Sudan (it wasn’t like a real good fake,it was just some dude wrote McDonalds with a big yellow M for his little tea shop.) I made my quick walk down where he said, and wham bam, there it stood. Right next to the Police barricade as I figured they might need some riot control as McDonalds is the greatest food ever and with all those tourists coming off the boats it probably causes some major riots. The place was tiny with only two registers, but it also was four stories tall where you could eat. Right away you could tell you were almost back in the states. The air conditioning was just a tad bit cooler, the air was definitely sharper (I am almost certain they shipped air in from the top of the Colorado Rockies), the place was spick and span, the people were all in uniforms, all the equipment was sparkly and clean. Just the smell of the french fry cooking oil made my knees weak. The only catch was the freaking line. Damn. A bunch of foreigners standing there like they have never been to a McDonalds before. What the hell, how hard is it to say “a #1, super sized, with a coke, for here.” No they have to stand there are read the whole freaking menu and ask questions. You could put me in a McDonald’s in the Northern part of Mongolia where they speak and write whatever they speak and write in Northern Mongolia and I could get a Big Mac meal in three seconds top. You don’t even have to speak. You just point at the freaking picture and then give a thumbs up. I waited for a line of idiots from all nationalities before I got to the front of the line and went through the most efficient order system that I have developed. “#1, regular, with Coke, for here.” Held out the money and waited for my stuff. Other people were still wandering around as if for some reason McDonalds in Egypt were going to use some freaked out system where a camel was going to bring their food around the back and hand it through the window in the bathroom. God, one of the few things in this world that pisses me off, people who get in the way of my McDonalds. So in the future, if you go do McDonald’s don’t be one of those idiots who wants there big Mac without onions or extra lettuce or some other innocent request. McDonalds is the food “The way they make it”, not the food “The way you want it.” Just order the food and if you don’t want something on it, take it off. You make the simplest thing in the world into something it is not meant to be. If you gotta have it your way, go to Carl’s JR or Burger King I hear they handle “special” customers like you.
Okay, focus, back to Egypt and pyramids and old stuff.
After getting juiced up, I went in search of a new hotel or rather satellite tv. As it was a fairly low time for tourism, there are a lot of hotels and not a lot of guests which makes it a slightly easier possibility of getting nicer places for a cheaper price. I ended up finding a nice three star hotel with satellite tv, kick ass airconditioning, a bath tub, and a balcony overlooking the Nile for $8US a night. I threw down a deposit as a reservation and promised to be back first thing the next morning.
Feeling a sort of high, or it could have possibility of the Godly nutrients of that Big Mac meal flowing through my system that I thought I would go crazy and knock out a couple of the big tourists must sees and get ahead of the game as I was kind of not wanting to have to leave my new hotel room once I got there.
The layout of Luxor is pretty immense, tourist stuff that is. It is basically split between the two sides of the river, the East (with the hotels) and the West with the Necropolis of Ancient Thebes. I figured if I knocked off two of the three major sites on the east side, I could put off crossing the river for almost four days which meant I could just watch tv and eat McDonalds. So, armed with my biscuit and a litre of water I went.
The first place I went was to the enormous Temples of Karnak.
In ancient Egypt, the power of the god Amun of Thebes gradually increased during the early New Kingdom, and after the short persecution led by Akhenaten, it rose to its apex. In the reign of Ramesses III, more than two thirds of the property owned by the temples belonged to Amun, evidenced by the stupendous buildings at Karnak. Although badly ruined, no site in Egypt is more impressive than Karnak. It is the largest temple complex ever built by man, and represents the combined achievement of many generations of ancient builders. The Temple of Karnak is actually three main temples, smaller enclosed temples, and several outer temples located about three kilometers north of Luxor, Egypt situated on 100 ha (247 acres) of land. Karnak is actually the sites modern name. Its ancient name was Ipet-isut, meaning “The Most Select (or Sacred) of Places”.
This vast complex was built and enlarged over a thirteen hundred year period. The three main temples of Mut, Montu and Amun are enclosed by enormous brick walls. The Open Air Museum is located to the north of the first courtyard, across from the Sacred Lake. The main complex, The Temple of Amun, is situated in the center of the entire complex. The Temple of Monthu is to the north of the Temple of Amun, and next to it, on the inside of the enclosure wall is the Temple of Ptah, while the Temple of Mut is to the south. There is also the small Temple dedicated to Khonsu, and next to it, an even smaller Temple of Opet. Actually, there are a number of smaller temples and chapels spread about Karnak, such as the Temple of Osiris Hek-Djet (Heqadjet), which is actually inside the enclosure wall of the Temple of Amun.
In the Great Temple of Amun, the Second Pylon of Karnak was built by Ramesses II. The Ptolemies did some extensive repairing and some new building on the center section. Curiously enough, they left the columns and the facade of the First Pylon unfinished and left the mud-brick ramp where it was at. The reason for the work being left unfinished is not clear.
The Hypostyle Hall is found after passing through the Second Pylon. The hall is considered to be one of the world’s greatest architectural masterpieces. Construction began during Ramesses I’s reign. He was the king who founded the Nineteenth Dynasty and was king for only one year. The work continued under Seti I (1306 – 1290 BC). Seti I also built the Temple of Abydos and many other temples. The hall was completed by Seti I’s son, Ramesses II. The effects that are produced inside the hall are much different than they were originally. The huge architraves are not above the capitals that tower above. Toward the center of the hall several architraves and windows that have stone latticework still remain.
This small area can give one an idea of the builders’ intent for the lighting effects. Some imagination is required here to appreciate what it must have looked like. The walls, ceilings and columns are painted with the natural earth tones. The light that was allowed in originally kept most of the hall in shadows. The hall ceiling was 82 feet high and was supported by 12 papyrus columns. The columns are made of sandstone and set in two rows of six. Each row is flanked on either side by 7 rows of columns that are 42 feet (12.8m) high. Each row has 9 columns, however the inner rows have 7 columns. The reliefs throughout the hall contain symbolism of Creation. The reliefs in the northern half are from the time period of Seti I and are obviously better done than those done by his son Ramesses II, which are in the southern half. Ramesses II’s reliefs are cut much deeper than those of Seti’s. This gives a much more dramatic light and shadow effect.
Plan of Karnak
The outer walls of the Hypostyle Hall are covered with scenes of battle. Again, Seti I is to the north and Ramesses II is to the south. The scenes have long since lost their color that was painted and the outlines of the scenes have been blurred by the centuries of wind and sun. It is unsure whether the scenes of battle are based on historical fact or of ritual significance. It is thought that when the battle details are very precise, real events are most likely involved. Seti’s battles take place in Lebanon, southern Palestine and Syria. The southern walls of Ramesses II have hieroglyphic texts which actually record details of the Hittite king and Ramesses II signing a peace treaty in the twenty-first year of Ramesses reign. This is the first evidence found for a formal diplomatic agreement and is certainly historical.
The Transverse Hall lies beyond the rear wall of the Hypostyle Hall. The wall is mostly ruined. With the Transverse Hall is a partially reconstructed Third Pylon of Amenhotep (Amenophis) III. The Transverse Hall has remains of the earliest sections of the Karnak complex that are still in existence.
Leaving the hypostyle hall through the third pylon you come to a narrow court where there once stood several obelisks. One of the obelisks was erected by Tuthmosis I (1504 – 1492 BC) who was the father of Hatshepsut. This obelisk stands 70 feet (21.3m) tall and weighs about 143 tons. During the centuries between Tuthmosis I and Ramesses VI, the kings of the time did more than their share of destroying and dismantling. This obelisk was never touched. The original inscription was left in its place. However, two kings did add their inscription on either side of the original. Beyond this obelisk is the only remaining Obelisk of Hatshepsut (1473-1458 BC). It is 97 feet (29.6m) high and weighs approximately 320 tons. Besides the Lateran obelisk in Rome, this is the tallest standing obelisk. The one in Rome is 101 feet (30.7m) high. Hatshepsut was a woman who dared to challenge the tradition of male kingship. She died from undisclosed causes after imposing her will for a time. After her death, her name and memory suffered attempted systematic obliteration. The inscription on the obelisk says, “O ye people who see this monument in years to come and speak of that which I have made, beware lest you say, ‘I know not why it was done’. I did it because I wished to make a gift for my father Amun, and to gild them with electrum.”
Tuthmosis III (1479-1425 BC) was Hatshepsut’s successor. When he came to power, he built a high wall around her obelisk. This wall hid the lower two-thirds but left the upper towering above. It has been thought that this was an easier and cheaper way of destroying her memory than actually tearing it down and removing it. If Tuthmosis III had really wanted to destroy the obelisk, he would have certainly torn it down and removed it. Perhaps that was another reason for his building the wall. The top of the obelisk was visible for 50 miles (80 km). The pink granite for the obelisk was quarried at Aswan, which is several hundred miles south of Karnak. The stone was moved several miles over to the river and shipped down to Thebes. The setting of the stone is shown on reliefs as the pharaoh raising it with a single rope tied to its upper extremity. This is most probably symbolic, but may have been done this way with several hundreds of people pulling together. To the south of the standing obelisk is its companion which has fallen. It was also made of a single block of granite but is broken now.
The Sixth Pylon, which was built by Tuthmosis III, leads into a Hall of Records in which the king recorded his tributes. Very little remains of this archive beyond two granite pillars. Just beyond these pillars lies the Holy of Holies or sanctuary. Originally it was the oldest part of the temple. The present sanctuary was built by the brother of Alexander the Great, Philip Arrhidaeus (323-316 BC) who was the King of Macedonia. The present sanctuary was built on the site of the earlier sanctuary built by Tuthmosis III. The present sanctuary contains blocks from the Tuthmosis sanctuary and still contain Tuthmosis’ inscriptions. The sanctuary is built in two sections.
Man, I am a genius. I just figured out that I could kind of do a look up in Yahoo about a certain area and up pops a million idiots writing about the stuff. I just pick one, cut and paste, and wha la, info done. (This is my way of saying that I am not plaguerizing stuff because I am acknowledging that I copied it. I know I am supposed to put the author and stuff, but that would mean that I need to do another cut and paste and I am not about to waste the gains that I just made by having to add stuff.) I will add though, that I walked the two plus kilometers out there in the heat while bus loads of tour buses spewed dust on me the whole way. It was a freaking zoo which I had not experienced before but, it was okay as I was not required to follow around some tour guide and look at stuff that I didn’t want to.
After that, I was on a high. I did a quick shower and aircondition massage back at the hotel and then figured I would wait for the sun to start setting making it a bit less hot and for the possibility of getting some night shots of the Luxor Temple. It was lucky I did as I ended up running into Denver and her sister (the American sisters I joined on their tour in Aswan.) They invited me along again and I did a second tour guide assisted walk through the Temple of Luxor. Another huge site which was pretty nice. We had timed it just right so as the sun set, they turned on the lights for the outside and I got a couple of good shots of the front. I wished them a good voyage as they were heading to Hurghada for some diving before heading home.
Temple of Luxor.
Many festivals were celebrated in Thebes. The Temple of Luxor was the center of the most important one, the festival of Opet. Built largely by Amenhotep III and Ramesses II, it appears that the temple’s purpose was for a suitable setting for the rituals of the festival. The festival itself was to reconcile the human aspect of the ruler with the divine office. During the 18th Dynasty the festival lasted eleven days, but had grown to twenty-seven days by the reign of Ramesses III in the 20th Dynasty. At that time the festival included the distribution of over 11,000 loaves of bread, 85 cakes and 385 jars of beer. The procession of images of the current royal family began at Karnak and ended at the temple of Luxor. By the late 18th Dynasty the journey was being made by barge, on the Nile River. Each god or goddess was carried in a separate barge that was towed by smaller boats. Large crowds consisting of soldiers, dancers, musicians and high ranking officials accompanied the barge by walking along the banks of the river. During the festival the people were allowed to ask favors of the statues of the kings or to the images of the gods that were on the barges. Once at the temple, the king and his priests entered the back chambers. There, the king and his ka (the divine essence of each king, created at his birth) were merged, the king being transformed into a divine being. The crowd outside, anxiously awaiting the transformed king, would cheer wildly at his re-emergence. This solidified the ritual and made the king a god. The festival was the backbone of the pharaoh’s government. In this way could a usurper or one not of the same bloodline become ruler over Egypt.
The only thing left on the East Bank was the Luxor Museum which was air conditioned, so I considered that something I would do even though I wasn’t really interested in the other stuff.
I think I will break it off here and start a new page as this is getting way too long.
Tags: air conditioning, Egypt, philae, Travel