BootsnAll Travel Network

Day 1780: Puerto Angel, Mexico: Fishing village life


Earlyish I was up and at em having a full day to unwind and check out what the town had to offer. It´s nice knowing that I am going to shack up for a few extra days as the two and outs are starting to be a bit of a hassle. First was the smell of fish in the morning wafting up to my balcony where I take a cool time out before actually doing anything. Across the street is a fish mongers place and I saw him carrying a wheel barrow full of bonita into his place. I figured if you snooze you lose so I headed down about fifty yards to the pier. The pier is cordoned off with a chain so cars and trucks were backed up as close as they could. On the ground were piles of Bonita, Tuna, a few dolphin, and some netted smaller fish. The way it would work is that the overnight fisherman would return and gun their boats up on the sand (steep bank). Right away the older ladies and a few men would rush to the boat and start grabbing whatever was caught. They would make their piles and then carry them up to their stashed on the pier. I am not sure how the accounting worked, but I assume the same people have been doing it for years and years as the boat captains and helper usually just watched the fish go and then took their boats back out to the bay to tie up or hauled their boats up farther on the beach. Unfortunately, I also noticed that there is also a market for shark fins as a few of the guys (the ones carrying a bunch of plastic jugs (they basically are long liners attaching a long stretch of fishing line with a circle hook and set them out for the night and then haul in whatever was caught.) It was not as bad as some of the commercial operations as they brought the de-finned carcasses back for sale instead of just cutting off the fins and dumping the bodies. By 10am all the boats are back and everybody is off in the shade somewhere trying to keep cool until evening time.

After the fish market, I decided to take a swim and headed to the other side of the bay where the water is a bit cleaner and calmer. Usually I tend to not like to swim in areas where the villages or towns are, but here in the desert atmosphere, there is really not any type of runoff as anything liquid evaporates really quickly. The only contamination really is the two-stroke motor oil from the boat motors. The other side of the bay where there are a couple of resorts doesn´t have the boat traffic and it is in a kind of curved overhand so the beach break is a lot smoother. There is a nice walkway that crossed the edge of a cliffside and then a new pocket of sand. I took a long dip and swam to a little private cove for a lay down in the warm clear water.

I was back at my place early in the afternoon so headed across the way to a little shack and had some great eggs and chorizo for lunch. I also scoped out a place selling some fresh juices to cover my sweets cravings. In the afternoon it was some fishing time watching the guys on the pier (there is one Japanese guy who fishes everyday) and then as the sun goes down a lot of people head back into the water. It is actually pretty fun playing in the pounding surf, rip currents and all. In the evening they have girls volleyball in the square and all the food stalls open up. This time a cheeseburger and some chips on the pier was dinner. It´s amazing as the sun doesn´t set until 8pm and things don´t wind down till late. Back at the hotel its some spanish tv (no satellite so only get two local channels), gotta love the tele novelas. Just finished Tom Sawyer, my first book since Africa. Gotta read it again to see if I missed anything. The mosquitoes can be a bit rough as I sleep with my door and window open to the balcony so I am using my net. It was a good day.

Tomorrow the search for some secluded bays and snorkeling.

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